Propped up by the Alston Block – an injection of magma during the Carboniferous period – the North Pennines feel like one enormous mass, rather than a series of individual mountains. This hulking yet gently-sloping behemoth is scarred by glaciers and punctuated by tiny but effective rivers and tributaries. Imagine scaling the shell of a Galapagos tortoise, and you’ll get the idea. Each summit – if you can call them that – presents a merciless expanse, where vegetation is wind-weary and sparse, with dark purple and green heather barely brushing your kneecaps.

Perhaps it’s not the hills themselves that enthral, but rather the vantage points they provide; to the west sprawls Cumbria’s ‘Garden of Eden,’ while to the east stretches the Tyne Valley. Point your compass south, and Yorkshire’s Stainmore Gap unfolds before you.

It’s a landscape far more appealing from the driver’s seat, with its striking simplicity offering uninterrupted sightlines that stretch as far as the eye can see. In these socially conscious times, such vision heightens the driving experience, maximises safety, and reduces tension, letting you nibble that apex more aggressively or stay on the throttle a moment longer. It brings a sense of freedom to the drive that feels genuinely liberating. Even the free-roaming livestock are easy to spot, standing out against the desolate landscape.

It helps that the roads are great to drive – both driver and machine will be thoroughly tested along this route. The tarmac is varied and twisting, with a mix of cambers, gradients, and surfaces that will exercise your dampers but never rupture your spine.

The Rush North Pennines Driving Route

Start - Shell Garage, Penrith, CA11 8HU

Finish - Shell Garage, Kirkby Stephen CA17 4DU

Est, travel time - 2hrs 45 mins

Length - approx. 104 miles

Perfect car for the route - Mitsubishi Evo VIII/IX FQ320, Toyota GR Yaris

A686, Hartside Pass

We begin on the A686, just a short hop from Penrith – one of only two A-roads you’ll need today and better known as the Hartside Pass. The climb doesn’t begin in earnest until Melmerby, but from there, the corners come thick and fast. Patience is key – the smooth tarmac invites pace, yet the snaking climb is punctuated by multiple blind, tightening bends, so caution is advised. Just as your forearms start to feel the strain, the road opens up, crossing the moorland as you rush toward the summit at 1,904ft. The final, wide-open hairpin before the Hartside Café is perfect for some low-speed, harmless fun – if the road is clear.

A local landmark, the Hartside Café sadly burned down in 2018 and remains derelict. However, it’s still a worthy stopping point, offering fantastic views stretching as far as the Solway Firth – providing you can navigate the pothole-ridden car park.

A686 Hartside Pass by Andrew Smith, Rush Magazine North Pennines best driving roads

A686 Hartside Pass by Andrew Smith

B6277, Alston to Langdon Beck

The fast, open rhythm of the A686 continues to Alston, Britain’s highest market town. As tempting as it is to carry on, we’re diverting south onto the equally fast and sweeping B6277 to Langdon Beck. Resist the urge to linger, as the next turn – onto an unclassified B-road towards St. John’s Chapel, crossing the top of Harthope Moss – is well worth it. Don’t be put off by the lack of designation; this isn’t a single-track, off-the-grid Land Rover Defender special. It’s open, varied, and challenging – everything you could want from an isolated moorland drive. Your only companions up here are snow depth poles, birds of prey, and, if luck isn’t on your side, the notorious Helm Wind – the only gust in the British Isles deemed worthy of a name.

B6295 Cowshill to Allenheads, then Down to Groverake Mine

If this were anywhere else, the A689 that follows would be an engaging road in its own right. Up here, though, it serves as little more than a link. Just past Cowshill, the show begins again as we turn north onto the B6295, which climbs higher still to the hamlet of Allenheads.

In the village centre, take the right turn at the crossroads onto an unnamed B-road (signposted Rookhope). This is another absolute cracker, beginning with a wonderful hairpin complex framed by a dense forest of fir trees. After a brief moorland plateau, the road plunges into a thrilling descent toward Groverake Mine, slaloming between slag heaps now reclaimed by nature.

The road levels off as you approach Rookhope Arch, another curious relic from the lead mining days. Originally part of a two-mile-long horizontal chimney designed to vent poisonous gases away from the town, it now stands as a decaying reminder of the area’s industrial past. Passing the structure certainly makes one feel less guilty about burning a few litres of fossil fuel in the pursuit of pleasure.

Unclassified to Blanchland, B6306 to Edmundbyers, B6278 to Stanhope

When you see the arch, you’ll have a choice to make. For variety, we recommend taking the shortcut left at the arch – a single-track road to Blanchland. While it’s not the most thrilling drive, with hazards limited to the occasional sheep, the stunning views alone make it a worthy detour.

If you’d rather keep up the momentum, head straight on from the arch to rejoin the A689. Follow it to Stanhope, then turn north out of town onto the B6278. Before long, you’ll reach a fork in the road – take the left, signposted Blanchland. Known locally as “Meadows Edge,” this single-track route offers spirited driving thanks to its excellent tarmac and plentiful passing places, even in low-slung cars.

Whichever way you approach it, Blanchland is a picturesque hamlet and a perfect spot to pause for a stroll if you need to stretch your legs. When you’re ready to move on, the B6306 to Edmundbyers is an easy choice. This tighter, swoopier B-road follows the outline of Derwent Water at arms length and even throws in a few tree-lined sections for variety.

As the theme of this route suggests, any road starting with B62 is bound to impress – and the B6278 delivers. From Edmundbyers, more desolate moorland awaits, with fast sweepers punctuated by tighter, second-gear sequences. Well-sighted throughout, it encourages you to make full use of the road.

B6278 Stanhope to Middleton-in-Teesdale

At Stanhope, you’ll briefly cross paths with the A689 again. Don’t worry – it’s just a short 350-yard link before you rejoin the B6278 heading south. Once clear of town, this magical road truly hits its stride, with a sequence of bends near Holliwood Common Quarry that’s particularly memorable.

After the quarry, the B6278 gets properly spicy, with limitless vistas and long-radius corners that’ll goad you into driving faster and faster. At times, it can feel like the only speed restriction is the one set by your conscience. Where the road does tighten, you’ll be hard on the brakes, immersed in the thrill of the challenge.

If you’re in the mood to test your eyesight, you can follow the B6278 all the way to Barnard Castle. However, we recommend another Rush detour onto an unclassified, snaking B-road. You won’t miss it – the tantalising ribbon of asphalt will already have caught your eye – but just in case, watch for the signpost to Alston High Force / Middleton-in-Teesdale.

B6276 - Middleton-in-Teesdale to Brough

With its web of outstanding driving roads, Middleton-in-Teesdale surely ranks among the best places in the UK for driving enthusiasts. Every route out of this bustling market town offers its own appeal, making Middleton an ideal launchpad for exploring the North Pennines – particularly if you don’t have to endure the M6 like us in Greater Manchester.

Our favourite road to take is the B6276, partly because it heads back toward the M6, but mostly because it’s another firecracker of a B-road. This route jiggles and wiggles its way across moorland, occasionally dipping into narrow vales to test your mettle. It’s a fantastic climax to the drive, and before you know it, you’ll arrive in Brough and connect with the A66, offering multiple routes home.

For those needing a refuel, there’s a Shell garage nearby in Kirkby Stephen (CA17 4DU) with super-unleaded on tap, plus a Spar store for a quick pit stop before heading home.

Alternative Routes and Other Great Roads in the North Pennines

With such a rich roll-call of great roads to choose from, some inevitably miss the cut. My personal preference for exploring the North Pennines often starts in the Yorkshire Dales, skipping the Hartside Pass leg entirely. This allows an earlier exit from the M6 at Sedbergh (J37) to enjoy the magnificent A684 and A683 heading north.

This variation essentially flips the loop on its head – or anticlockwise, if you prefer – as the A683 carries you to Kirkby Stephen, where you can refuel before heading to Middleton-in-Teesdale. From there, the world is your oyster. You could head northeast to Edmundbyers, slingshot around Blanchland, and retrace your steps.

Alternatively, venture further afield by taking the B6277 northwest to Alston in search of the infamous ‘Black Hill’ road, just off the A689. A drivetrain-busting hill climb in a previous life, its near 2,000ft summit marks the border between Northumberland and Cumbria. There’s even a small car park at the top, perfect for pausing to admire the view before navigating to Allenheads and rejoining the suggested loop.

Whichever direction you choose, one rule remains true: if your road starts with B62, you’re already onto a winner.

Share Your Experience

Have you explored the North Pennines and its incredible driving roads? Share your journey and favourite images using the hashtag #RushDrives. Join the community of driving enthusiasts celebrating one of England’s most rewarding regions behind the wheel.

Super Unleaded Petrol Stations in the North Pennines Area:

Shell Penrith

Location: Penrith, UK, near Junction 40 of the M6.

Postcode: CA11 8HU

Shell Kirkby Stephen

Location: Kirkby Stephen, UK

Postcode: CA17 4DU

Esso Hexham

Location: Hexham, UK

Postcode: NE46 3PG

BP Barnard Castle

Location: Barnard Castle, UK

Postcode: DL12 8ES

North Pennines Dining Options

The North Pennines boasts a variety of dining establishments catering to different tastes and budgets:

The Cumberland Inn

Alston, UK

A traditional pub offering hearty meals and a selection of local ales, perfect for a cozy dining experience. 

The Allendale Inn

Allendale, UK

Known for its warm atmosphere and hearty classic British dishes.

The Golden Lion

Corbridge, UK

A historic pub offering a range of meals from light bites to generous dinners, accompanied by a selection of beers and wines. 

The Black Bull

Frosterley, UK

A charming pub serving traditional meals and local beverages, ideal for a relaxed dining experience. 

Accommodation Options in the North Pennines

Whether you're seeking luxury or budget-friendly stays, the North Pennines offers a range of accommodations:

Lord Crewe Arms

Blanchland, UK

A historic hotel offering luxurious rooms and fine dining, perfect for a premium stay. 

The Teesdale Hotel

Middleton-in-Teesdale, UK

A comfortable hotel providing well-appointed rooms and a restaurant serving local cuisine. 

YHA Langdon Beck

Forest-in-Teesdale, UK

A budget-friendly hostel offering dormitory and private rooms. 

Haggs Bank Bunkhouse and Camping

Nenthead, UK

Provides affordable bunkhouse accommodations and camping facilities, suitable for groups and solo travelers. 

Points of Interest

Extend your trip by exploring these notable attractions in the North Pennines:

High Force Waterfall

Forest-in-Teesdale, UK

One of England's most impressive waterfalls, offering stunning views and walking trails. 

Killhope Lead Mining Museum

Cowshill, UK

A restored 19th-century lead mine providing insights into the region's mining heritage. 

Raby Castle

Staindrop, UK

A medieval castle with beautiful gardens and a deer park, offering guided tours and events. 

Bowes Museum

Barnard Castle, UK

A French-style chateau housing a vast collection of European fine and decorative arts.